I know a lot of people are not happy with the X2, but I am trying anyway. Brand new to CNC and probable to old start learning new things
. So far I am very pleased with what I have done so far. Lots of small parts for practice and for the down draft table I am building. Finally hooked the X2 today and watched the video again. I cut the first half and it does perfect then the 2nd half is perfect on the X axis but about 1/8" low on the Y axis. Any ideas?
Anybody? Seems like there could be a calibration for the 2nd half cut. X and Y compensation like the we have on the Z calibration.
I have an X2 but haven’t used it…. So this is just an opinion….
I would think this mismatch is the result of slight error in the initial Droid calibration. You’re doubling any error of the max range of motion when you shift the base over. Might be easiest to shift the material slightly for the second half to ensure good match up. Dry running with a sharpie would let you know if you’re right. Should be a consistent error so automatically shifting your material out 1/4” and over 3/8” (whatever numbers make it work) for the second half.
Or try another calibration to get it better….don’t do the calibration with the Droid on the X2 base!
Thanks for the reply. I may try another calibration but don’t see that helping because it seems to be just the X axis. That is why I thought of compensation in the software, like for me, something like X=0 and Y= -.125.
Yes, I have been using the marker and run it several times and it is consistent.
So referencing your material to the droid base’s face. Try a run of a straight line (marker) the length of your x travel. Measure the starting and ending point Y distance from the base face. I’m guessing you’ll see that 1/8” your getting.
There is no way to manually enter a comp for this that I know of.
Yes that is basically what I have been doing with the marker. I think I will come up with shim system that will move the sheet a set distance for now. Maybe Andrew will put the comp idea on the list for an update someday.
Thanks
Hold the X2 button to go into the X2 alignment wizard
Really–I know what I will be trying tomorrow. Never heard anything about that. Thanks a lot.
Wow, Thanks guys. I have been drawing lines all morning and getting almost perfect. I don’t know how I missed the alignment wizard. I’ll chalk it up to being 71 years old, that’s what I blame everything on these days.
I could not find a way to see what the compensation was from the factory, you would think 000, but after my first try at calibration it said -.157 degrees. Then it was almost as bad, but the opposite way. After several try’s I got one that was .000 and it is almost perfect, at least with the marker. I doubt the marker is that accurate. Anyway, Thanks again.
I’ve had my Arcdroid and X2 for almost two years and this is the first time I’ve ever heard of the X2 alignment procedure as well. While I’ve only used the X2 a couple times, I must have gotten lucky as I’ve have always had the two sides align perfectly without going through the alignment procedure as. So it is true you learn something new each day. I will be checking out the alignment procedure on the X2 next time I’m in my shop. I’m assuming the new Plus Controler will have the same alignment procedure??? Thanks for the info.
This is good to know about! One of you should write something in this thread on how to use the X2 alignment tool. That will help others that find this discussion.
Never thought I would be posting a “How To” as I am probably the least computer savvy person here. I do like to figure out how things work. I will give a few thoughts.
This is what I had missed from the beginning.
This will get you started and walk you through step by step, a lot like the calibration. I think what it is doing is correcting for the Arcdroid sitting on the X2 not exactly straight (manufacturing tolerances and whatever). It took me a bit to figure out what was going on. I thought my problem was the 2nd side was off on the Y axis. What it really was, was both halves were slightly rotated. Think of it as, say a 4-foot straight line is really 2 2-foot straight lines. If you were to rotate those 2 lines, say clockwise, where they meet in the middle, the #1 half would be low and the#2 half would be high, but they would be parallel. Like Andrew said in the above post, 0.1 degree would make a big difference.
If I am all wrong, please correct me.