Cutting ovals instead of circles

Need help. Yesterday I cut a few circles out with bolt patterns in them. And neither the 6” outside circle or the inside 1” or other holes I wanted cut are circles. More oval shaped. I also don’t understand the zero mark. I waste a lot of plate trying to cut multiple pieces because after the first cut I move the arm over to start then next piece and zero the machine again and it just moves the arm over to some random place. Or the picture on the screen moves almost off the screen. Very frustrating!

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Also having problems with the machine skipping over cuts. Like it won’t probe prior to starting torch there for it won’t penetrate the plate. Then it moves to next spot and probes as it should fires torch and works perfectly. If someone could chime in and give me some advice before I put it up for sale.

The oval shape is due to your calibration or torch head is not square

The zero problem - this is from a trace right? You are forgetting to zero the trace when in tracing mode. The place it moves to isn’t random. It is what the zero was previously when you started the new trace.

Your oval circle problem is most likely a calibration issue. Go thru a full calibration procedure with both the probe and the torch head mounted.
Never had a problem relocating a second run zero point. Make sure you’ve set a zero when doing the trace and setting the zero after you call up the program. For the second part, move the arm to the new zero location and set it. Look at the screen and follow the green dot/circle as you move the arm around to the extremes of your part. If it doesn’t fit right move the arm to the preferred zero point and rezero. Make sure you enlarge the screen enough so you can see the details.

ok Thanks guys. So i should recalibrate and see if that helps. So when i load a part that i made on Fusion 360 it show up on the little screen fine. But when i move the arm to where i want it to start on the plate and hit the zero it moves the picture on the screen, sometime it moves it right off the screen. or ill just be able to see a small portion of my drawing. so i try to do a dry run with torch off and the machine will swing its arm so far it bottoms out and skips the belt repeatedly until i quickly pause the dry run. This has happended more than i would like to admit.

As to your Z problems. Make sure the guide rods are clean and a drop or two of light oil is applied to the bushings. The work piece surface sensing is determined by load on the servo motor decreasing. Make sure your workpiece is not wobbling or flexing. The weight of the torch and cable should be compensated for is some manner. I’ve had the same issue myself on rare occasions. Sometimes it seemed related to where in the working envelop I was and changing the zero position stopped the dragging.

In fusion 360 you need to set the origin of the part when you are creating the 2D path. Change it to a corner of the part.

Hey there

The zeroing related to the origin point of you part

The origin of the part you are cutting is imported along with the geometry.
So you need to make sure your file origin is properly located to your part

The “zero” button on the ArcDroid just moves the origin of your part.
If the part is 10" away from the original origin the part will Cut 10" away from the new origin no matter where you place it

If you are Using .dxf files there is an “origin” button in the import dialog that allows you to center the drawing on the ArcDroid’s origin point

In fusion it looks like this

I like to center my parts

If you are Using .dxf files there is an “origin” button in the import dialog that allows you to center the drawing on the ArcDroid’s origin point

Oh ok. I was putting the origin in the top left corner on fusion 360 thinking that would be closest to the arcdroid for easy setup on the plate in going to cut. I will try centering it on my next cut. How do you explain it not probing the odd time and skipping over cuts? im guessing its something im doing. But out of 2 Cuts of the same part it i made it missed a cut on one but cut the other fine. Thanks for the help fellas!

All my issues where I have a cut, and then repeat the cut and it has a false probe has been caused by the torch cable interference. Whether i’ve not had enough slack, and the effort to pull the cable down has caused the probe to trip, or i’ve had it get caught underneath, and could get lower.
I’ve since changed my set up, and cable is much better supported now.

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