Arcdroid Level to cutting surface

I was helping a friend set up his Arcdroid, We set the AD level to the cutting surface, did this by setting the digital level on the arm pivot at the " level here " sticker, then the table, keeping them exactly the same on x & y. After doing this used stylus to touchdown close in to base ( Z ), then fully extended out and found almost 1/8" difference , further out left the stylus up … Is there any adjustment for this in an effort to get cutting height ( Z ) consistent through the cut reach of the arm?


I would suspect your leveling technique. Ultimately being level really means the droids arm is parallel to the work surface. I get better results using something as a gauge block between the stylus and a flat plate set on the work surface. Adjust the droids base at each corner to get things parallel. A dial indicator instead of a gauge block really brings it in and you can see things move as you adjust.
The latest firmware has Z compensation taken into account from three points on the work surface.

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There will always be some Droop in the arms…it’s physics…she’s a cruel bitch.
So it’s pretty common to have to shim the machine a little to get it totally level.

But that’s also why we have the new “Auto Level” feature.
This basically calculates the tilt in your material (and consequently the droop) and will compensate for it automatically as it moves around the sheet.

Note! you need to update Both Simple trace AND the machine firmware for the auto level to work.


The arm droop really makes calibration tough. Will the new auto level feature help with that?

If the arm is level to your calibration surface ( machine shimmed to match) then the droop is small enough that calibration should be no problem with a little down pressure on things.

Auto Level is meant to help After that because you cant guarantee that whatever you are cutting is as level as you calibration surface.

So Get it calibrated on the flat and level, use Auto Level to compensate for less than ideal cutting surfaces there after.


I have had the machine for over a year. It took me multiple times to get it calibrated because the stylus would come out of the thing that you slide along the rails (finally got it calibrated so haven’t had to mess with it again). Didn’t know or think that I should have shimmed the base. If I ever have to recalibrate it will do so.
BTW the new firmware for THC and my Hypertherm XP is working good. Thanks!!